Milan Runway Sparks Cultural Appropriation Claims
Italian fashion giant Prada drew criticism after unveiling its Spring/Summer 2026 menswear collection at Milan Fashion Week on 22 June 2025. One of the showcased items — brown leather toe-ring sandals priced at about ₹1.16 lakh (SGD $1,856) — bore a striking resemblance to the Kolhapuri chappal, a traditional Indian footwear style granted Geographical Indication (GI) status in 2019.
The absence of any acknowledgement of Kolhapur’s heritage in Prada’s promotion of the sandals led to accusations of cultural appropriation and commercial exploitation of a protected craft. Artisan groups and social media users in India expressed frustration over what they saw as an erasure of the footwear’s cultural roots.
Prada Responds, Denies GI Violation
On 28 June, Prada issued a statement acknowledging Indian influences in the design but described the product as being in an early concept stage. In a formal legal reply on 9 July, the brand rejected claims of GI infringement, stating it had neither marketed the sandals as “Kolhapuri” nor implied any geographical association.
Legal experts in India supported this position, noting that aesthetic inspiration alone — without use of the GI name or claims of origin — does not qualify as a legal violation under the country’s current laws.
Court Dismisses Public Interest Petition
A Public Interest Litigation filed in the Bombay High Court on 4 July sought to halt sales, compel a public apology, and secure compensation for artisan communities in Maharashtra and Karnataka.
The court dismissed the petition on 16 July, ruling that only registered GI holders — LIDCOM in Maharashtra and LIDKAR in Karnataka — have the authority to pursue infringement claims under the GI Act.Prada’s lawyers emphasised that the brand had not misrepresented the sandals’ origins or used GI-specific terminology in marketing.
Artisans and Brand Discuss Possible Collaboration
On the same day the case was dismissed, Prada representatives visited Kolhapur to meet artisans and local officials. Talks reportedly explored the possibility of a co-branded line and ethical sourcing initiatives aimed at bringing traditional craftsmanship to international markets.
Despite Prada’s denial of wrongdoing, LIDKAR has served the company with a ₹500 crore legal notice over alleged unauthorised use of a GI-protected product. The matter remains under review.
Global Spotlight on Kolhapuri Craft
While the legal dispute continues, the controversy has boosted global interest in Kolhapuri chappals. Indian shoemakers have reported increased inquiries from both domestic and overseas buyers. The debate has also reignited wider discussions on the responsibility of luxury brands to give proper credit, ensure fair compensation, and protect traditional crafts in the global fashion industry.
Watch a video here:
@cbcnews These Prada sandals that resemble traditional Indian footwear, known as Kohlapuri chappals, led to some immediate social media backlash. CBC’s Salimah Shivji explains the shoe’s history, Prada’s response to the criticism and what could be a small silver lining. #Prada #Sandals #Luxury #Fashion #Design #India #CBCNews
Making of Authentic Kolhapuri Sandals:
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